Expat Joys - Eating a Mango

September 30, 2011

A few days ago, I ate the very first mango of the season.

Come to think of it, it was actually still very much out of season, as I haven't seen another one for sale since then, and I seem to recall from last year that the South African mango season doesn't start until closer to December. The cold winter months of June and July seem but a distant memory now that it is practically summer again, and it is agonizing having to wait over two more  months for mangoes to make their regular appearance on store shelves and street corners.
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Chocolate Mousse in Paradise

Considering I've written two chocolate-titled posts this past week, you might think I'm a chocolate addict. Which is definitely not true, though it might be true for the rest of my family.

When one thinks about Mauritius, one doesn't necessarily think about chocolate mousse. One might rather think of this:

The beach at Le Touessrok, Mauritius

Towels and cooled water are waiting for you when you swim to one of these

Except when you've been at Le Touessrok Hotel once before (we have, last December; this was our second trip). Then you will forever think back to the beautiful restaurant and the even more beautiful dessert table, and especially the corner with chocolate mousse in such abundance your eyes will water from joy. And trust me, I'm a chocolate mousse connoisseur, making a pretty good batch myself. Le Touessrok's is the absolute best, and you can go back again and again for yet another one, which is exactly what we all did every night of our stay there.

All the food at Le Touessrok is divine, but the dessert table tops it all

What I wouldn't give for one of those right now!
Beautiful setting for dinner

There are tons of other things Le Touessrok has going for it, and if you want more details, check out my review on Tripadvisor. It is by far the best hotel we've ever stayed at, with the possible exception of the Four Seasons on Maui. In fact, Mauritius is very much like Africa's Hawaii. It has the perfect climate and simply does tourism very well. You will arrive at a modern, air-conditioned airport, breeze through immigration without the long wait and exorbitant visa fees you have come to expect from other African destinations, you will be whisked to your hotel in a luxury van, and the service and food will be outstanding. No malaria pills to worry about, great weather year-round, and not all that far (5 hour flight) from Johannesburg. With all these things going for it, you really will wonder why you'd ever want to go anywhere else again for a beach vacation.

View from our rooms at Le Touessrok

Of course it'ts not cheap. But then again, all travel in Africa seems to be much more expensive than we ever imagined, so Mauritius doesn't particularly stand out (as long as you don't go there over Christmas). What we loved at Le Touessrok in particular was the excellent service - your wishes were practically read from your lips before you even uttered them, forming a striking contrast to our stay at Pemba Beach in Mozambique, where almost none of our wishes were fulfilled, even when spoken out loud several times in a row - and the fact that you're left to do whatever you want. If you want to do nothing and just read your book sitting at the pool, there will be no annoying water gym people trying to round you up. If you want to do watersports all day long, from waterskiing to parasailing and more, simply take the free hotel shuttle to Isle aux Cerfs and play there to your heart's content.

Waterskiing at Isle aux Cerfs is free for guests at Le Touessrok

Parasailing comes at an extra charge but is worth it for the view
(so I'm told - I don't do heights, remember?)

My favorite place to hang out was on a lounge chair right at the pool, even though you could argue I wouldn't have to fly all the way to Mauritius for that. Still, it's a very nice pool, and heated, so my kids didn't even have to prod too much to drag me in there.

Heated to a perfect 28 degrees Celcius
My favorite job: judging handstand competitions right from my chair

But just so you won't think I didn't move all weekend, we did have our daily afternoon tennis match (which, in an alarming new trend, Jabulani and I lost), and I was drafted successively by all four kids to play paddle ball, or whatever you call that game with the two wooden paddles that must be very annoying for everyone else not playing but forced to listen to the clack-clack until they're counting along with you.

Zax and I on our way to the new family record of 212!

Oh, and I should also mention the diving. Noisette, Zax, and Jabulani all have their open water qualification. Noisette talked Impatience into giving it a try this time around, so she got to practice in the hotel pool, which made Sunshine beg to be allowed to do it as well, even though she is only nine. In the end, you guessed it, I was also made to don the diving gear, but I can assure you, I'm even less fond of depths than heights. Though I have to admit, when I saw the first pictures made with Noisette's new underwater camera, I was a bit tempted. I'll share them with you in an upcoming post.

All in all, Mauritius was as glorious the second time around as the first, and we are pretty certain that this visit won't have been our last.
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Chocolate-Chip-in-Hiding

September 28, 2011

My initial impression upon moving here was that South Africa is a baking-challenged nation. Why else should it be so hard to find an ingredient as basic as the chocolate chip?

At first I thought maybe I was the challenged one. What with biscuits called scones and cookies called biscuits and pretty much everything else called pudding. Seriously, I had brought a beautiful home-baked apple galette for dessert to a friend’s house, made from a recipe I take great pride in – a buttery and incredibly flakey dough, with just the right amount of sweetness. She called me the next day and thanked me for the pudding.

But subsequent visits of baking aisles at the various grocery stores made me wonder. Maybe South Africa is baking-challenged because it has put its entire baking prowess into the production of the perfect rusk, leaving no room for anything else? You’ll find an entire aisle full of these things best eaten after dunked into your tea, similar to a biscotti in concept but sadly not in actuality.

I’ve now got “chocolate chips” permanently etched on my mental shopping list, and every once in a while I’d think I finally scored. I tried the kind from Woolworth – a store I worship – but they were more like a fine dust of grated chocolate. Definitely not the same. I found a package of what looked like large flat chocolate chips at Pick n Pay one day, but they tasted so awful I actually had to throw them away. I tried chopping up chocolate – there is a lot of good chocolate to be had here, just not in morsel-format – but if you’ve ever done that you will know that you end up with more chocolate  flying into all four corners of your kitchen than will end up anywhere near a cookie.

And if you think “what’s the big deal, just go and buy some cookies  – uhm, biscuits - then,” you’ve got it wrong. South African cookies, let’s face it, are just not very good. That’s the plain and honest truth, sorry my friends. There are lots of foods I love here – I could go on and on just about yoghurt – but cookies are not amongst them. Every once in a while, a person needs a good chocolate chip cookie (or, frankly, just a tub full of the cookie dough) when she’s had a rough day.

What I did find one day on my quest for chocolate chips was a nice looking package of baking mix. Maybe South Africans just don’t like to bake from scratch, I thought, so I gave it a try. But it was exactly as if I was baking from scratch! I was asked to add milk, and butter, and eggs, and it seems like maybe the flour and sugar as well. It was an “Emperor’s new clothes” kind of baking mix, but it seems South Africans are quite happy to go along with it.

Last week my search for the elusive chocolate chip took a turn to the serious: Sunshine, age 9, was having a market day at school and had volunteered to provide – you guessed it – chocolate chip cookies to sell. Too bad my kids never consult me before making such rash pronouncements. What now? I already told you how our ancient hand-held Braun mixer had to come to the rescue due to our transformer going up in smoke, but I still had no chocolate chips.

This is when I remembered a friend telling me about a shop called Kadies, way early into our tenure here, when I had voiced a similar complaint. Back then I couldn’t be bothered going to five different stores every time I shopped. I guess I was still determined to bend South Africa to my will. But with your pride on the line when your daughter has volunteered your baking skills, you have to make concessions. So on to Kadies I trudged (just go straight across William Nicol if you're coming out of Montecasino, and it will be down a bit on your right hand side next to a small Spar), and what a worthwhile visit I had!


Kadies at Kingfisher Shopping Centre, 011 465 5572

Kadies is nothing short of amazing. They’ve got everything you could ever imagine that is in any way connected to baking. Including chocolate chips. Not just a few bags, but an entire aisle dedicated to them – dark, white, milk, 52% cocoa, 60% cocoa, small bags, big bags, gigantic bags… You name it, they had it, and I was seriously challenged making any type of decision.

It was as if all of Joburg's chocolate chip supply was stored in this one single place.

Chocolate Chips to your heart's content at Kadies

It turns out there must be some pretty serious bakers out there to warrant such a store. So perhaps it’s not so much that South Africans don’t bake. It’s just that they love going from one specialty store to another to do their buying.

Kadies had baking supplies I couldn't even have dreamed up

They will also make cakes for you or let you rent the sheets/tins for baking your own

The cookies turned out great, and Market Day was a big success (with my pride intact). Here is the recipe from “How to cook everything,” one of my trusted cookbooks:



Classic Chocolate Chip Cookies


  • 2 sticks (250 g) unsalted butter, softened
  • 3/4 cup white sugar
  • 3/4 cup brown sugar (finding the right type of brown sugar is also a bit of a challenge, but I'm sure Kadies would be the place for that as well)
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 cups (9 oz or 255 g) all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp vanilla exrtract
  • 2 cups chocolate chips
  1. Preheat oven to 375 F or 175 C
  2. Use an electric mixer to cream together butter and sugars; add eggs one at a time and beat until well blended
  3. Combine flour, baking soda, and salt in a bowl and add them to the batter, stirring just until blended. Stir in vanilla and chocolate chips.
  4. Drop by tablespoons onto baking sheets covered with parchment (make sure you leave plenty of space around them or they will run together) and bake until lightly browned, 8-10 min. Cool 2 minutes on sheets, then transfer to rack to cool completely. Or eat them warm!

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Founder's Day at Dainfern College

If I ever need reminders that choosing a South African school for our kids was the right thing to do, the recent Founder's Day ceremony at Dainfern College was the perfect occasion.

Founder's Day 2011 at Dainfern College, South Africa


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Blowin' in the Wind

September 25, 2011

After berating American energy consumption in one of my recent posts, I have decided to put my money where my mouth is (a little bit). I have taken to hanging the laundry up to dry.



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Today is Heritage Day

September 23, 2011

On September 24, South Africans celebrate Heritage Day. It is a holiday meant to encourage everyone to remember their heritage, their culture, their traditions. Even though I'm not South African, it made me wonder: What is my heritage?

I grew up in Southern Germany, raised "schwäbisch," in other words thrifty with a terrible accent, growing up on my mom's homemade berry jam and the admonition to work hard and not impose on others. At sixteen I spent a year in the deep deep American South, having had the incredible good fortune of being accepted into the most wonderful family, and trading my Southern German accent for an equally broad and misunderstood American one. In my early twenties, together with Noisette - the other incredible good fortune of my life - I left the land of my fathers for good and set out for the New World, so to speak, but one I already knew from my high school exploits. Almost twenty years later, we are now citizens of that adopted country of ours, together with our four beautiful children, but in a twist of irony that is typical for our family we actually don't live there anymore, having been deposited on these murderous - if you believe the opinions spewing forth on the internet - shores of South Africa. And we carry around a little bit of Asia in us from our brief interlude in Singapore, from where we retain, at the very least, our fondness for spicy food and leaving our shoes at the doorstep.

So it's a bit complicated to reflect on my heritage, but I'm raising my glass to all the great places we've had the privilege to travel to and call our home, and especially the wonderful people we've met along the way.

But this being a post about South Africa and its heritage, I'd like to close with this tribute to our great country that was shown to us at our kids' school:



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Gardening in South Africa

September 22, 2011

One of the most annoying things about becoming an expat is having to learn certain things from scratch. Like what kind of fish to buy. Which cut of meat you need when you're looking for flank steak. And the names of the plants around you.

I thought this being spring would be a good time to tell you a little of what I've learned about gardening in South Africa. Even though I've claimed before that there are only Two Weeks of Spring, judged by temperatures, we are still at the beginning of spring when it comes to planting your garden.
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What is Wrong with Appliances in South Africa?

September 21, 2011

Seriously, buying a kitchen or other electrical appliance here is definitely a challenge. For one, you never know what kind of plug it's going to come with - Euro or South African? Three-prong or two-prong Euro? this makes a difference in what kind of outlet adapter you need. And the two-prong Euro plugs are sometimes flimsy, simply falling out of the outlet.

But there are quality issues as well. I have a friend who swears that European manufacturers send their B and C quality products to Africa, the ones they couldn't sell in Europe because of production defects. The following story another friend told me recently seems to underscore that point:
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Where Can I Find an Alarm Clock?

September 19, 2011

Thanks to one of my new expat friends who just arrived in Joburg last week I thought of writing this post for the benefit of everyone. She sent me a somewhat urgent message, while out on errands on a Sunday, about where to go for stationary and lunchboxes and that very elusive item for newly arrived expats here, the radio alarm clock. It made me realize that while I've written about Things to Buy Before You Move to South Africa and Grocery Shopping in Johannesburg, even Searching for Applesauce in South Africa, I haven't given any tips on where to go for those first crucial items.

I well remember when I was on The First Shopping Trip myself. I was equally frustrated our first weekend here, having to buy school uniforms for four children, school supplies, food, and, yes, alarm clocks. Perhaps it is not surprising that alarm clocks should be hard to find in a country that has at least three different definitions of the word now, none of them actually meaning now. (Another very elusive item are night lights. I have to admit I never found those in South Africa, since no one had any idea what I was talking about.)

So here are my tips for Things to Buy Your First Week (I've tried to arrange them by topic as well as by the route you should take):

First of all, don't make this trip on a Sunday, if possible. Or get going right at 10:00 am before many stores close at 2:00 pm, if they are open at all.

Converter plugs and multi-strips: There is no doubt one of your first errands in South Africa will be to somehow get all your stuff plugged in. Once again, you best already come with converter plugs (we've fared very well with the Universal Outlet Travel Plug from Amazon), but you will probably still need some multi-strips, because South Africans insist on building houses with only two power outlets per room (and none in your bathroom). The best place for these is Builder's Warehouse, behind the McDonald's at Fourways Crossings. But make sure you take note before you go of what exactly it is you need, i.e. South African or Euro plugs, facing to which side because of wall constraints, etc. I have many of these multi-plugs sitting in a drawer because they didn't quite fit the way I had imagined.

Stationary: The best place for this is Walton's in Fourways Crossing, situated sort of behind and under Fournos Bakery if you turn right at the traffic circle next to Standard Bank. It's a bit like Office Depot. Checkers Hyper at Fourways Mall (across from Fourways Crossing on the other side of William Nicol) also has a decent stationary aisle. In fact, Checkers Hyper is the closest to a SuperTarget you will find here, so you could also go there first with your list.

Electronics: While you're already at Fourways Crossing, you can check out HiFi, Incredible Connection, or Stax. They all have large offerings of electronics. I think I was able to find a radio alarm clock at Incredible Connection, but the selection is almost nonexistent and the one model they have might not be great quality. Therefore, as I've said in my "What to buy before moving" post, I suggest getting battery operated alarms back home before moving here. You're better off with that in any case, because the power still goes off fairly regularly around here. Or get an iHome, those are usually dual voltage. When you're done at Fourways Crossings, you best go back out and up the hill past Builder's Warehouse, turn right, then left again, and this will get you in the vicinity of Pineslopes Shopping Centre, across from which you will find Hirsch's. They have a very large selection of electronics as well as appliances at good prices, so if you're strapped for time, you might just want to make one stop at Hirsch's.

I bought this deLonghi automatic coffe-
maker at Hirsch's and received good service
Appliances: If you didn't bring any transformers, you will need to buy things like toasters and hairdryers and such. If you haven't found anything at Hirsch's, the best place for this is probably Design Quarter, a shopping center with an emphasis on home furnishings. There is a very nice store there called @home that carries everything from kitchen appliances to patio furniture, but it is also very expensive. A better option would be Woolworth Home or Boardman's, both also at Design Quarter. There is also a Mr. Price Home there, which is a good inexpensive place for home furnishings. As no doubt you'll have gotten tired of all the shopping by now, stop quickly at vida e caffe and treat yourself to one of the better lattes you will find in Joburg. Oh, and I'm pretty sure you'll also need a vacuum cleaner. And I'm also sure there is no better brand than Miele. I will never go back to anything else and could probably dedicate an entire post just to the virtues of their vacuum cleaners. There is a Miele store on the road to Sandton on the left that you should definitely pay a visit to.

School uniforms: You won't need those for the American School, but if you chose Dainfern College or any of the other South African private schools, your very first trip will be to McCullagh & Bothwell to be clothed. Remember that they close at 3:00 pm on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays.

Are you already tired from reading all this? That first shopping trip is so crucial for expats, and I hope the above list will save some future shoppers time and effort, even if it probably already is too long for just one trip. Once you've got that out of the way, you might want to find out more about other shopping-related expat tips by clicking on "Shopping" in the Topics of Interest list to the right.

Oh, and one more thing: Beware of the return policy! Don't go buying the first thing you see, thinking you can always return it. I'd check out prices first or perhaps even do some homework reading reviews on Amazon, because here in South Africa, once you've bought it, you better well keep it. Most appliances and electronics have just a one-week return policy, and even then you will be grilled as to the reasons why you're returning the item, so it will be another loooooong errand. Manufacturer's warranties are typically a year but I'm sure there will be some lovely paperwork involved if you ever have a need to claim one of those!
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How You can Help Alexandra Baseball

September 17, 2011

I've told you about what we've accomplished so far with Alexandra Baseball, which mainly meant getting more equipment. I've also written about the upcoming Funfest in Alexandra where we'll use the bulk of this equipment for the first time to give a lot more kids exposure to the sport. If the day is a success, then many more kids will sign on for league play in the upcoming season, and several schools will start fielding their own teams. And guess what that means? We'll need more equipment!

In my last post I appealed to prospective expats moving to South Africa to help with transporting equipment we've already collected. But what if you're just a reader of this blog and not moving to South Africa? If you would like to help with our effort, this is what you can do:
  • Collect used baseball equipment by contacting your local high school or baseball club; you could hand out fliers and get the entire school involved, or better yet, let your kids do a "Baseball for Africa" drive, which I think would make a wonderful outreach project. Just think of how many people you know who have their garage full of unused sports gear. All of which would be put to very good use here in Africa. When you're finished with your collection drive, all you need is a place to keep it for us until I can have it shipped to where the next expat container is leaving. I've included a sample donor letter below, which you're welcome to use as is or modify according to your needs. I can also provide more pictures.
  • Play it Again Sports often has very inexpensive used clothing and equipment on offer, and you might be able to negotiate a special deal with them, in case you'd like to help but don't want to get involved in a donation drive.
  • If you don't have access to baseball gear but would like to be involved, consider making a donation to Alexandra Baseball. Any funds we raise in this way will be used for shipping expenses, team transport, and field improvements.




And finally, it always helps to spread the word. If you just forward this article to your kids' baseball or soccer team or some of your friends and colleagues, post it on Facebook, Twitter, and whatever else may be out there which I - perennial late adopter that I am - don't even know about, more people will read about it and perhaps be moved to help.

Tedius asked me to put a special request in here for what we most urgently need: fielding and catcher's gloves for left handers (meaning the ones that fit onto your right hand, just to be precise) of all sizes big and small, and pants for age 16 and above.

This concludes my mini-series about township baseball in Johannesburg and the different ways to become involved. To read more, click on the "Alexandra Baseball" link under "Topics of Interest" on the right.


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SAMPLE DONOR LETTER


Baseball in Africa Needs Your Help!


Having moved to South Africa last year with our family of six, the one thing I didn’t expect to find here was baseball. Our boys, ages 12 and 14, had been avid baseball players before but we were resigned to the fact that it would have to be cricket (cricket!) from now on (let me just say that we are still struggling to understand why it is necessary to have matches last 5 days). However, I was all the more surprised to find that there is a growing baseball movement in South Africa, and not just as a pastime but also a model of social change. One such example is the Alexandra Baseball Association. 

Alexandra is a township in Johannesburg, and one of the most destitute and crime-ridden environments you can grow up in. In fact, I was warned never to set foot there, but I’m glad I did and consider myself fortunate to have met the founders and coaches of Alexandra Baseball. They have passion for what they’re trying to build and work hard, without any compensation. In fact, what little they earn with odd jobs, they pour into their baseball program to provide transport and meals for the kids in their care. Going to practice every day after school keeps the kids out of trouble and stirs dreams in some to perhaps one day make it to the Major Leagues.

 But the challenges are daunting. Their home field has no fence or backstop, no bases and no pitcher’s mound, which forces the team to travel across town to other clubs all season. The biggest need by far is that of more and better equipment, which is where YOU come in. We need your old mitts, bats, helmets, cleats, pants, belts, even socks and balls, catcher’s equipment, discarded team jerseys (an entire team’s old jerseys would be great), and any training equipment such as batting sticks, tees, or videos.

For further information please visit my blog at http://joburgexpat.blogspot.com/2011/03/getting-closer-on-alexandra-boys-dream.html, where you can also make a donation, or leave a comment for me so I can contact you. But mostly it is your used equipment that we need, because even with money it is hard to find baseball gear in South Africa.

You CAN make a difference! Please help these young boys fulfill their dreams. Thank you.



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More on Alexandra Baseball:

What we've accomplished so far: From Garage to Outfield - A Second Life for Used Baseball Equipment in Africa

How you can help...

...if you live in Joburg: A Call to all Local Bloggers and Photographers!
...if you live in the United States and are moving to South Africa: Got Container Space?
...if you live anywhere else in the world: How You Can Help Alexandra Baseball

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Got Container Space?

September 15, 2011

This is a call to all my American readers who've come across my blog because they have plans to move to South Africa in the near future. Especially those of you who've already booked a moving date. I'd love to have a tiny corner of your container space, if indeed you're moving your household! Don't worry, I'm not asking you to collect any baseball gear as no doubt you'll be less than eager to add another project to your moving checklist. But we've already got equipment sitting in Wisconsin (and are continuing to collect more) that didn't make it into an earlier shipment. It would be very easy for me to have it sent to wherever it is you're moving from, while it is very expensive and cumbersome to ship it directly to South Africa.
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Call to All Local Bloggers and Photographers!

September 14, 2011

If you're a Joburg blogger and/or a photographer, and if you can somehow make time on Friday, September 23rd, 2011, I need your help! To find out how, please bear with me while I give you some background before I come to the point.

In my last story about Alexandra Baseball, I promised that my next post would be about what we're actually doing with all the equipment we've collected thus far.
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From Garage to Outfield - A Second Life for Used Baseball Equipment in Africa

September 13, 2011

I think this is a good time to give you an update on what's been happening with my Alexandra Baseball project in the past few months. In fact, this is the first article in a series I'll be running the next several days to tell you about what we've accomplished so far, what our plans are, and where we still need help.

As some of you know, I stumbled upon this township baseball league shortly after moving here and have been trying to help them with their effort to grow and develop more players. Since the biggest obstacle seemed to be the lack of equipment (baseball gear is already hard to find in South Africa, but it is especially difficult when you have absolutely no money), we set as our first goal to get more of it. Like everything I've done here in Africa, it has taken longer than I envisioned, but when I now take a look at what we've collected so far, it is fairly impressive.

Alexandra boys with a batch of newly arrived pants

Thanks to various donors, we got:

Baseball equipment donated by PifB
  • 120 balls
  • 62 bats
  • 61 mitts
  • 49 baseball pants
  • 40 batting gloves
  • 37 helmets
  • 17 jerseys
  • 15 equipment bags
  • 14 pairs of cleats and shoes
  • 11 sets of catcher's gear
  • 3 baseball tees
  • 1 laptop computer
  • 1 batting stick
  • 1 training book
  • an assortment of belts, socks, and hats

The biggest batch of equipment was donated by Pitch in for Baseball, a US-based nonprofit organization, and the shipment of it here in a big crate was made possible with the generous donations of 65 friends and blog followers from all over the world (the USA did edge out Singapore in the end). Special thanks also go to the Chetwynd family for the donation of a large collection of pants, jerseys, and mitts (some of them specifically bought at Play it Again Sports for the purpose of donating), a local company called Sportsworx which donated a batch of brand-new pants, the Hofheinz, Fairchild, and Perrin families for collecting an assortment of shoes and clothing and somehow managing to wedge all of it into their already tight luggage space and shepherding it through customs undetected, and to Louis Bolling, a US-based sports consultant and tennis coach.

part of the Chetwynd family donation (pants not shown)
Sportsworx donated eleven of these pants
Posing with donated equipment

Comparing and trying on pants

The above list actually doesn't include another sizable shipment that is still on a somewhat curcuitous route to South Africa. Collected by the Rozman family in Wisconsin through a tireless effort that involved distributing fliers and lobbying the local High School coach, packed and sent to Houston by the Graf family, and now on a container to Durban as part of the Doty family's move to South Africa. (The things I do to circumvent another import permit!)

And what are we doing with all this baseball equipment, you might wonder? Keep posted, and I'll tell you in my next article about an exciting baseball festival planned for Alexandra at the end of September, which will be a great opportunity for some of my local readers (and photographers!) to get involved.

How you can help... 


...if you live in Joburg: A Call to all Local Bloggers and Photographers! 
...if you live in the United States and are moving to South Africa: Got Container Space?
...if you live anywhere else in the world: How You Can Help Alexandra Baseball

Read more ...

Are They Reading my Blog at the NYT?

Literally a day after I published my last post about the need to protect the world's shark population, the New York Times ran an article called Making Headway in the Movement to Protect the World's Sharks. What great timing. From what is written there, it's still going to be a long road for shark populations to recover, but some encouraging efforts are under way to curb the worldwide hunt for shark fins, not the least of which is a publicity campaign to educate people what the consequences are of eating that coveted bowl of shark fin soup (even if one of those consequences is that there might soon no longer be any shark fin soup to be had, one way or another).
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Shark Fin Soup and Rhino Horn

September 12, 2011

My recent story about shark cage diving made me realize how lucky we are to be living here in South Africa to even have such opportunities. Like I told you, I wasn't even particularly gung-ho about the idea during the planning stage. We were just doing it for Jabulani's birthday present.

However, having had the privilege to see and meet a great white shark (actually, several of them) in the wild, I now realize how extraordinary that actually was.
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The Bank We Should Have Chosen

September 11, 2011

I have Jozie Days, one of my readers, to thank for the following insight on choosing the right bank in South Africa. It sounds almost too good to be true, compared to the rather bad and expensive service we get with the bank we - not knowing any better - chose. So I'm hoping some of you future expats will read this and give Investec a try:
"We were lucky when we came to SA. I went to Standard Bank and they were very unhelpful ( like most of the banks in SA) They gave me piles of forms to fill in and were generally difficult. The thought of opening an account filled me with dread and despair. Then one of my husband's work mates told us about Investec. They are brilliant. They deliver our foreign currency for holidays and business trips. They deliver credit cards, petrol cards etc. We have a personal banker who is exclusively assigned to us, she sorts out any problems. We have a reasonable monthly bank charges fee. You can draw cash from any ATM without being charged. The only down side is that they don't have cheque books (which is actually a positive for me as I hate trying to balance my cheque book). They do not have any retail outlets - but deposits can be made at ABSA."
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The New Global Student

September 8, 2011

When I reflected a few days ago on whether there is or isn't an ideal time to take an expat assignment, I mentioned a book by Maya Frost, called The New Global Student, with the somewhat lengthy but descriptive subtitle "Skip the SAT, Save Thousands on Tuition, and Get a Truly International Education."  It's a great book, but especially so for expats, and I'll tell you why.

This amazing woman actually decided to move abroad, together with her husband and four teenage daughters, because she felt they were too much in a rut at their regular American high school, too much immersed in "what one does" with too little focus on a true education preparing them for life. Mind you, neither her nor her husband were just transferred abroad with a nice expat package. They had to start from scratch, having to learn a foreign language to boot. Her book is what came out of all of that, not just a very entertaining story with many "that is SO true" moments for me, but a very useful hands-on guide with great tips on foreign exchange strategies and alternatives to the typical college application process. She writes about how her daughters went on to have amazing careers (or rather lives) after various stints abroad and despite (or more accurately because of) very circuitous but fast-track routes through higher education, and she also includes numerous stories about other students with equally unique and global paths. You can read some of these stories on the New Global Student website.

Just to give you an idea, here is an excerpt from one of her chapters that immediately captivated me and should give you a good example of her writing style:
Okay, parents, listen up! It's time for a pop quiz. I'm going to write one question on the board, and I'd like you to carefully consider your answer. Ready?

What's the one thing preventing your student from catapulting forward? Please take a moment to think about it. (Cue Jeopardy music.)

Time's up. Let's see what some of you have come up with as an answer to this question. What's the one thing preventing your student from catapulting forward? Anyone?

Laziness!
Lack of Focus!
Uninspired teachers!
Too many tests!
Too much stress!
Too many classes!
Not enough time!
Not enough money!
No sense of purpose!
No idea what they are interested in!
Fear!


Ding! Ding! Ding! The one thing preventing your student from catapulting forward is fear. Not his or hers -- yours.

...This fear is bad enough, but another sneaky little element is also gumming things up. It's ego.

...Fear. Ego. Let's call it fego. it's quite an electrifying combo. Fego is the driving force behind the multibillion-dollar college-prep industry. It's what motivates us to get our kids to take the PSAT as an eighth grader or to sign up our students for SAT-prep courses as freshmen. Fego makes our stomach churn when we hear about the neighbor kid getting into Princeton. It breathes down our neck when we're looking at summer camp or college websites.

I could definitely see myself in that description.

In fact, I was sold when I read the book's very first sentence, a quote by Mark Twain: "I have never let my schooling interfere with my education." I could write an entire essay just about that morsel of wisdom.

The New Global Student's message is that we should strive to raise our kids to "surge ahead with flaming enthusiasm and red-hot qualifications for life (and work) in the global economy."  That a typical high school education in the U.S.and the inevitable college prep rat race that goes with it is not only insufficient but also not really necessary. That we as parents can avoid the stress of the "traditional hypercompetitive path to that golden university diploma" as well as save a lot of money in the process. That what we need today is "bold school," not "old school."

What Miss Frost does so well in her book is giving lots of hands-on and detailed advice for the multitude of ways to achieve that, in a very entertaining and inspiring way. 
   
Of course I might be biased by this book and the assumption that moving abroad has huge benefits for your kids, because we are one of those families that fits into the mold of her stories. And let's be honest, all of us like to think they did the right thing, so it's very comforting to have somebody else tell you so. Miss Frost can sometimes sound a bit condescending towards the American education system and those who choose to subject themselves to it, which might turn some readers off. It's also in many ways still a very American book which probably doesn't resonate so much for parents in, say, Europe. But I found her story and, even more so, her witty writing, both honest, entertaining, and thought-provoking. It goes much beyond schooling to the core of parenting and what it is we raise our kids for.

Order The New Global Student here on Amazon:

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When is the Best Time to be an Expat?

September 7, 2011

If you've ever thought of taking an assignment in a different country, this question will have crossed your mind. When we moved from Kansas to Johannesburg over a year ago, many friends commented on how hard it must be for a thirteen-year-old to go through all this. Being thirteen is not easy to begin with, so the consensus went, and leaving all your friends behind and being plunged into a new world on top of that must be especially tough.
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Where to Live: Dainfern or Dainfern Valley?

September 6, 2011

First off, let me say that I don't mean to diss all the other perfectly fine neighborhoods out there. There is Kyalami, perhaps a notch below the budget required for both Dainferns and also a bit out of the way, which might actually be an advantage traffic-wise because you won't be stuck on William Nicol in the morning. There is Fourways Gardens, very pretty and in a great location, but perhaps with just a few more security issues lately, from what I've heard. Then there are Fernridge and Dainfern Ridge right next to us, with the same proximity to Dainfern College, if that is where your kids go to school. (For an article about Dainfern College and which estates it feeds from, click here). And there are numerous other places an expat might wish to live in Johannesburg, whether it is in an estate or not. In fact, with traffic as bad as it is, there is a strong point to be made to try and live as close to work as you possibly can.

View over the rooftops of Dainfern Valley


Nevertheless,  for most of the expats I've met, the choice seems to come down to either Dainfern or Dainfern Valley, so I'll focus this post on those two. I briefly toyed with the idea of making a snazzy decision matrix outlining pros and cons in a very easy-to-view chart, but since I have no clue how to actually do tables in HTML and am prone to get sidetracked for two days trying to figure it out, I think I'll do what I always do, which is just ramble on, and hopefully you can build your own decision tree from my observations...

Dainfern seems to be THE place to be for expats. It is huge (1000+ houses), has an excellent safety record, and sits right on a golf course. If you're a serious golfer, there is no doubt Dainfern is where you should live, and even if you're not, you might want to take it up here where the rates are reasonable, the weather perfect year-round, and where you'll be looking for things to do on the weekend. If your kids are involved in sports and you like the convenience of them just hopping on their bikes to get there versus hours in traffic to cart them from one activity to the next, Dainfern once again is your address. In addition to the golf clubhouse (where they host weekly buffets and other social get-togethers) there is also the Pavilion with tennis courts and a soccer field as well as (I think) squash, volleyball, and ballet. The soccer club (Dainfern Football Club or DFC to be correct) was recently reorganized and new coaches were brought in and trained, so if your kids are already playing soccer and want to continue, it makes a lot of sense to move to Dainfern.

Soccer action with Dainfern Pavilion in the background

Dainfern Valley, in contrast, doesn't have any of these things. So why would you want to move there? Simply put, the value of the home you're going to get. The homes in Dainfern Valley are generally newer and bigger (both in plot and room size) and the houses along the river front with their beautiful lawns sloping toward the water are unbeatable in scenery and privacy. Access to Dainfern College is even better from the Valley, as almost all houses are within walking distance of the private school gate. Several sports are available on the school grounds (even if your kids don't attend school there) such as swimming and tennis, and you're still very close to all that's offered in Dainfern (except you will have the hassle of going in and out the visitor's entrance, unless you're a golf member, in which case you will get an access card). The Valley with its 300 or so homes is also much smaller and feels more personal than Dainfern, and you'll definitely have a lot fewer speed bumps to negotiate to get to and from your house every day.

Extended playground on the Dainfern Valley riverfront

So - if your family is very active and social, Dainfern will be right for you. If you value privacy, space, and lush surroundings, Dainfern Valley will give you more options. In the end, you will probably look at both, and while you're at it, stop on your way from one to the other and take a tour of Dainfern College as it is a great school.

PS: Literally a day after I published this post a "security incident," as these things are called here, of an entirely new magnitude took place at Dainfern, the golf estate (not Dainfern Valley, just to be clear, which has also had its own security incident a while back reported here). I don't want to recount the entire story because details are still evolving, but let me just say that a man was shot to death outside of his home, by several men who were disguised as SAPS police officers and subsequently fled the estate in a hijacked car. It's all a bit hard to believe, but apparently the Chinese mafia was somehow involved (of all the crime stories I have heard about South Africa, the Chinese mafia hadn't been mentioned), and they apparently also  have some sort of presence in Dainfern, as the perpetrators were let in by a residents without having to use force, and it also now emerges that this wasn't the first incident of this kind. Just the first one where someone was killed.

I had mentioned Dainfern's large size as opposed to Dainfern Valley. Upon further reflection, I do think that this large size is definitely a negative for security reasons, since so many people go in and out of the estate every day that there is just more room for error, and much less of a personal relationship between the security guards and the residents. That, in my mind, makes Dainfern Valley the better choice.
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How (not) to Pay your Traffic Fines in South Africa

September 3, 2011

I remember when I got my first speeding ticket here in South Africa. I didn't mind the ticket so much as having to figure out yet another new thing - how to pay traffic fines. I also didn't like the chastising I was sure to get from Noisette about "paying no attention and always driving too fast." Of course he hadn't received any tickets yet.

Or so I thought. However, unbeknownst to him or me, the company his car is being leased through was busily accumulating an entire file of fines, for some obscure reason waiting until now to present them to him in a tidy stack, six in total, for ZAR375 each. (This doesn't include the two he got driving our rental car in George, where we got first caught coming from the airpor, and then again going back just in the instant where he said "wait... we should slow down somewhere around here, that's where they got us last time.")
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Can you Buy GAP Clothes in South Africa?

September 2, 2011

photo courtesy of GAP
If this title sounds more promising than what you will learn from this post, I apologize. I just wanted to share another shopping tip, having just gone through the process of trying to buy a pair of jeans for one of my kids.

I've previously written about Grocery Shopping in Johannesburg and have figured out a fairly good routine, but clothes shopping continues to be a thorn in my side since we've moved to South Africa. I am a rather atypical expat spouse (even though Noisette doesn't believe it) in that I do not actually enjoy shopping. Because of this I greatly value the convenience of shops that deliver expected quality and style, year in year out. Shops that I can rely on to always carry what I need, the few times that I need it. The GAP was that trusted address for me back home.
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More Diving with Sharks

If you've read "13th Birthday in Style," you will know that our cage diving expedition to see the great white sharks in the wild was only one part of Jabulani's birthday package. The other part was what he was actually most looking forward to, the dive in the predator tank of Two Oceans Aquarium.

Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town

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Two Weeks of Spring

September 1, 2011

In one of my earlier posts I berated collective Joburg for amnesia about the fact that winters here are cold, so that every year you have to deal with a shortage of things to keep you warm. But now I understand why.

About three weeks ago I was still faithfully cranking up the gas heater every morning so that we didn't have to eat breakfast covered in blankets, already making plans to buy another gas bottle soon so we wouldn't run out again at an inopportune moment (though that is precisely what is destined to happen to me with such matters). I started my days in layers of clothing I would shed as the sun got stronger. And I crawled under my down covers practically at sunset because every other place in the house was freezing.

That all seems a distant memory now, at the end of August. I'm sitting here in short sleeves and flip-flops at six in the morning, waiting for yet another glorious sunrise over greening treetops promising a hot day of 28 degrees. Windows will have to be opened soon to let in the breeze, our pool will get used by screaming kids, and we'll sit on the patio well into the evening. In short, summer has arrived. And it'll be here until next May, nine long wonderful months of it, during which it is safe to say I will join the collective amnesia regarding winters in Joburg.

We've had exactly two weeks of spring. Or, more precisely, what other people might call spring as defined by the period wedged between winter and summer. The real spring here will happen in October and November when the rains start, washing away all the dust from five months of drought and revealing a sparkling and blooming landscape, when it actually cools down a bit, and when the Jacaranda trees will bloom again in all their glory. But by then we'll already have had two hot months of summer. In short, the seasons in Johannesburg are like nowhere else in the world.

Will someone please remind me in March to stock up on gas bottles.
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