Tips on Buying a Car in South Africa

One of the hassles most expats have to endure is having to buy a car in an entirely new country. Some expats might decide to skip the car and do with public transport, but South Africa is not the place for that. You will need a car here, trust me. And buying it won’t be the quickest or easiest thing you've ever done, so it’s best to come prepared. Here is my story to learn from:

When the kids and I first arrived in Johannesburg, I fully expected to find a shiny new car in the garage. After all, Noisette had already been here for months, and I consider car-buying to be “guy territory.” But, sadly, this was not the case. Things don’t move that quickly in South Africa, and he hadn’t even gotten his own company car yet, driving a beat-up Toyota rental instead. If you’re the trailing spouse, my advice to you: Don’t rely on your better half to have set up much – he or she will be incredibly busy with a demanding and time-consuming new job with many challenges most previous jobs will not have prepared them for. You’ll be lucky if you’ve already got a place to live. However, most companies employ one or more drivers, so in our case I made use of that service quite a bit before I inherited aforementioned Toyota.

The first challenge of buying a car in South Africa is paying for it. Car prices are about twice as high on average as in the United States, so you best adjust your expectations. What’s more, the market is not quite as big, so once you’ve settled on a car you like, you might not be able to find one. Check some used car websites (like Autotrader) early to get a better idea of what’s out there. One thing to look for when car-shopping is smash-and-grab protection. It’s a film that protects your windshield and windows against being smashed in, and most higher-end cars will come already equipped with it. But if not, you can add it later. It’s a good thing to have if you're concerned about security and crime in South Africa.

The second challenge of buying a car is coming up with the actual money for it. You might not have a bank account yet, in which case you would need a bank draft made out in ZAR. But it's a good idea to set up a local bank account as one of your first items to do, and this might be a good time to do it. I'll be talking about the details of bank accounts some other time, but rest assured it will involve a bunch of documents - passport with residence permit, lease agreement, etc. You'll need all those as well when registering your car, which is what I'll talk about in a minute.

Moving to South Africa? Find Joburg Expat on Facebook. And see these other posts: FAQs about Moving to South Africa Things to Buy Before Moving to South Africa Moving Checklist Will I need a South African Driver's License (or What to Do When the Cops Stop me) Opening a Bank Account in South Africa Your Kindle in South Africa

Let’s say you found a car and have money in your bank account to pay for it – what next? In most places I’ve lived, you would now meet at the bank with the seller, transfer the title to the car in return for the money, and drive away. But not so fast. Here in South Africa, there is no such thing as a title. Rather, you get a “Certificate of Registration” when registering your car, but this takes some time, and most people obtain it later, after purchasing the car. This caused a bit confusion for us, because we – my husband, mostly – were not about to hand over a stack of money without receiving some kind of document in return. Our car dealer assured us that this is how it’s done in South Africa, and even offered to obtain the registration for us, but we were suspicious (spooked by colleagues and our relocation agent – the words "don't trust those Indians in Benoni" were used), so we opted for the much longer route of obtaining the registration first. In hindsight, I would say that if you’re purchasing from a car dealership, you can go ahead and pay them, get the car in return, and let them then handle all your paperwork without worry.

But there is one thing you still have to do it in person, and that's applying for a Traffic Register Number. Foreign nationals need this number in lieu of a South African ID, a fact that some car dealerships are not aware of. Basically, the dealer you are buying from (I assume this is fairly similar for buying a new car) should provide you with the following:

• Roadworthiness certificate
• Current registration
• Invoice/your proof of payment
• New license plates

But before getting the new license plates, you will have to appear in person at your closest Licensing Department - most likely the Randburg Civic Centre if you live anywhere in the Northern Suburbs of Johannesburg (Corner Bram Fischer Drive and Jan Smuts Avenue in Randburg) but here is a list of all Licensing Offices in Johannesburg) - to apply for your Traffic Register Number as well as the Certificate of Registration. It’s best to go first thing in the morning and make sure you bring your lease agreement, passport, passport pictures, and foreign drivers’ license. The application process will take a few days, meaning you will have to go there again to pick up your certificates, at which time the transfer of ownership can take place. Once again, the car dealership might offer to apply for the Certificate of Registration on your behalf, but since you'll still need the Traffic Register Number, you might as well do both at the same time. I hope I'm not confusing you. Don’t be discouraged if the lines are long. Most people will be there for a drivers’ license renewal or something of that sort, and you should be whisked right through to the car registration counter.

Your Certificate of Registration for your car will look like this;
you will get a second, similar copy, from which you cut out
the round registration disk for your windshield.

In our case, this experience was pretty comical (only in hindsight of course – while you’re experiencing these things you tend to curse and foam at the mouth). Once we had found a car we liked – about 2 weeks – and then finally determined that we needed to get it registered before handing over any money – another week – I set out for the Licensing Department in Randburg, armed with all my paperwork. Or so I thought, until I discovered that a passport picture would be needed. Fortunately, some enterprising street vendors were at hand – as they are everywhere in South Africa – and beckoned me to a tent-like office where a picture could be taken and printed out instantaneously for R20. Armed with this I went back to my queue and proceeded to fill in the lengthy application. I eventually advanced to the inner sanctum where a very bored-looking woman took all my papers and proceeded to enter everything into a computer. Eventually she wanted to see my passport, but after a quick glance handed everything back to me and told me it was no good, she couldn’t give me the traffic register number. What? After all this hassle? It turns out that you can’t get a Traffic Tegister Number – which, you’ll remember, is the key ingredient in getting the car registered – if you don’t have a permanent visa. My temporary one was no good. [Note: I have since learned that even a 2-year accompanying spouse visa is no good, the work permit holder is the one who will have to get the car registered, so save yourself the trouble if you're only the spouse].

Please note that you are never told these things upfront in South Africa. No one ever gives you a list with every single requirement. Instead you show up with what was mentioned over the phone, get sent home again because something that wasn’t mentioned is missing, and show up a few days later with the missing one, only to be told that now something else is required as well. Please also note the irony of driving back and forth between home and the licensing office when what you don’t actually have is a car! 

But there was nothing to do for me but to grab a new form, take it home to Noisette and somehow convince him to drive to Randburg through morning traffic and wait in line on my behalf – all another week’s worth of time gone by. But I was still lucky in that he had his permanent visa, whereas many expats arrive here without them, in which case they are stuck without a car. I have heard many such tales. And if you think hanging out at the Randburg Licensing Office is no fun, wait till you stalk the Department of Home Affairs for days or even weeks! 

Traffic Register Number Certificate; note that you only have
to apply for this once, it will be valid to purchase as many cars
as you wish; it's also a good idea to keep a copy in your car.

So, your number one requirement, if you want to purchase a car in South Africa, is to have at least one permanent visa together with a work permit in your family’s possession. Which is why I keep telling you to get your permanent visas as soon as possible!

Once you’ve purchased your car, stuck your license plates on, and affixed the round disk you’ve cut out from the registration certificate to the inside of your windshield (which by the way is renewable every year but you will get a notice in the mail for that), you will still need two things: Insurance and a tracking service. Most insurance companies will insure your vehicle over the phone according to the make of the car, and then follow up with an at-home visit to make sure you actually own a car and aren’t buying phantom insurance. They will also most likely require you to have a tracking service like Altech Netstar (about R180 per month).

I hope my tips will help you buy a car in less time than the month it took us. But remember, this is Africa, and things move a bit slower here. On the bright side, the one thing you won’t need to get is a drivers’ license. Your foreign license is perfectly fine as long as it is valid. I still haven’t been able to track down the exact wording of this rule, let alone where it might be written, but it seems to be true, as I’ve been stopped by police several times and my eclectic collection of Kansas/international/German licenses seemed to work every time. There you have one less errand to run that might have been on your moving checklist!

Did you find this article helpful? Find Joburg Expat on Facebook.

More posts about moving to South Africa:

FAQs about Moving to South Africa
Things to Buy Before Moving to South Africa
Moving Checklist
Will I need a South African Driver's License (or What to Do When the Cops Stop me)
Opening a Bank Account in South Africa
Your Kindle in South Africa

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HP Service in South Africa

HP Pavilion
Elite e9220y

One of the nice things about writing your own blog is that you can write reviews about pretty much anything and broadcast them to the world - or at least the world of your readership, which admittedly in my case is still a fairly small world. But I do have an audience and would like to take this opportunity to give a big thumbs up to the great service I received from HP here in South Africa.

We have a HP Desktop computer we brought here from the US, and a few days ago it refused to boot up. Just sat there and did nothing. I admit I might have had a hand in this development, because I unplugged it during the last thunderstorm, afraid it would be hit by lightening, and since I was in a hurry getting out of the house, I just pulled the cord without a proper shutdown.

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Egyptian Geese

I find it amusing that back home we had Canadian geese, and they were a nuisance because they pooped all over the golf courses. Here in South Africa, you have Egyptian geese living on all the golf courses, and they are just as much of a pain.

Different goose, same difference. Just blame a country from the North for the invasion.

This Egyptian goose looked very out of place on our rooftop

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Expat Joys - Variety and Life Skills

I had trouble pinpointing a good title for this one, as it encompasses so much of the expat experience. I could have also called it "gaining perspective."  What I mean to convey is the following:


If you'd told me two years ago that we'd have to give up the kids' baseball and basketball in exchange for netball, field hockey, and cricket, I would have thought that is the end of the world. Our American lives were so permeated with those sports that it seemed unimaginable that there could be any meaningful life thereafter. My message to all of you: There is! And how liberating it feels.

Let's face it, most of our kids won't be professional athletes, so why are we so hung up that they get onto the gold glove baseball team, that they get to pitch in every game, that they get to play point guard, that they continue every breathing minute of their lives with that sport so as not to fall behind their peers? If we're honest with ourselves, is it  not often our own ambition that drives a lot of that? (I've explored a bit of that trap in my Strong Mothers Strong Sons analysis.)

In reality, what our kids will need most later in life is the ability to adapt quickly and to learn new skills, and that is exactly what has happened to us here. They were inserted into an entirely new school system, having no clue where to go and what to do for the first few weeks. They had to learn entirely new sports where they started off way behind their peers - I mean, the average American kid has never held a cricket bat in his life! - but  have since then accumulated quite a few "most improved player" awards, boosting their egos. I remember how I was outraged - and I mean OUTRAGED - the first week of school when I discovered the girls weren't allowed to join the school soccer team (boys only) and marched myself to the principal's office without delay. I often recall what he told us that day: "When in Rome, do as the Romans do." While that may sound arrogant, I've come to truly appreciate that advice - and the opinions of our principal - over the last year. I still think gender discrimination is wrong, but there is enough else on offer that I didn't feel the need to pursue that battle.

So we've done as the Romans - or rather, South Africans - do, or at least tried to. Basketball and baseball are off the table, and the kids are now invested in  netball, cricket, field hockey, horse riding, scuba diving, swimming, and tennis, and (boys) soccer, as well as singing, marimbas, piano, saxophone, and flute. Not that sports and music are the only areas in life where you acquire new skills; they are just a good example for our experience here. But acquiring new skills is only part of the equation. I'd also venture to state that everyone in our family is happier than before. I know I am happier as I'm no longer driving around for hardly any of this, and the kids are probably happier because I'm no longer giving "useful" hints on how to do something better. I mean, I'll still yell "get the rebound" during a netball match, but quickly shush when everyone is starting at me like I'm from a different planet. And even though I think I now understand cricket fairly well, I do not drag Jabulani to batting clinics and such to improve his game. Instead, I feel like I can truly enjoy watching whatever the kids are doing.

Finally, if you've been reading this blog from the beginning, you will know that I've become much more relaxed - often by necessity, but still - about life in general. This is Africa, but it's not a pain, it's a gift.

Turning expat hassles into expat joys is just a matter of perspective.

Entire Expat Joys series:

Part 1: The Head Massage
Part 2: Beautiful Art in Your House
Part 3: Service at the Gas Station
Part 4: Variety and Life Skills
Part 5: The Neighborhood Shopping Center
Part 6: Legal Common Sense in South Africa
Part 7: The Sun
Part 8: Eating a Mango

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It's Not a Strike, it's a Toi Toi

Courtesy of The Epoch Times

I'm reminded that we've lived in South Africa for just over a year, because the garbage workers are on strike again. Remember my trash odyssey last year? First the disappearing trash can, then my trek to the police to get a document to affirm that it was stolen so that I could get a new one delivered? And, at precisely the moment I finally got the new trash bin, the strike started. We were drowning in trash for weeks.

Well, it's that time of year again and garbage bins are overflowing everywhere. Nothing has really changed, except my attitude. Whereas last year I was on the phone trying to get to the bottom of such a disruption of life as I knew it, this year I just glance at the trash can in the driveway, take note that it has still not been emptied, and shrug my shoulders. I honestly can't summon that feeling of stress from last year. It did get emptied eventually, didn't it?

Garbage collectors on strike in Johannesburg

That's what a year in South Africa will do to you. Maybe we're in danger of becoming too relaxed if we stay here much longer and won't be able to cope with US-style efficiency and workaholism when we return?

Courtesy of BBC News

But talking about strikes makes me want to share what I've learned about this art form - and it is indeed an art here - in South Africa, which is rich in its history of striking workers. After all, strikes were one of the main (and often only) conduits for Africans in this country to try and effect change during the apartheid years, and they've got it down to a science. Unfortunately for the current government, a population used to striking doesn't just stop overnight, even if many of the injustices are gone. Strikes are a regular occurrence around here and can be very disruptive. Last year, striking teachers and hospital workers caused schools to close for weeks and patients to be turned away at hospitals, all because the 7% wage increase offered by the government (and way above inflation during a time of recession) wasn't satisfactory to the unions. But students themselves are just as prone to strike, or regular people demanding a bigger housing allowance, pretty much anyone with any kind of grievance.

Courtesy of Sulekha.com

If you see a strike in South Africa, however, you can't but admire the strikers. That's because they are not just on strike, they Toi Toi. One day I was shopping at Pick 'n Pay and heard beautiful singing drifting towards me, and when I went to investigate I saw a crowd of about 30 people ambling through the store, everyone clad in red t-shirts and clapping and swaying while singing the most inspiring song (South Africa's National Anthem arose from one such battle hymn sung regularly by ANC members). It almost had a religious feel to it, and when I asked an employee what was going on, I was very startled to hear that these were just striking workers. This is so typical South Africa to me: Taking something that is rather nasty and dull, like a strike, and turning it into something beautiful.

It's hard to explain a Toi Toi until you've seen one. Watch this video to get an idea. It's a bit lengthy, but the interview with the one guy is pretty hilarious too.

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What to Do in Joburg

If you're an expat in Johannesburg, no doubt you've had (or, trust me, will have) your fair share of visitors. Isn't it funny how your friends and relatives were horror-struck at the thought of your family moving to Crime Mekka, but then couldn't wait to purchase tickets to visit you there? I think we expats as a group have single-handedly done more for South Africa's goodwill abroad than the entire World Cup!

Anyway, what you need for when your visitors arrive on your doorstep is a good list:

What to see and do around Joburg - shopping, art, museums, amusement parks, safari, evening entertainment, sports, what to do with kids, what to do without kids. My list is ever-growing, which is good, because some visitors are already booked in for the second time! 

So here it is, and if you need more information on any of these activities, you can always check the "Around Joburg" tab at the top of this page.

Gold Reef City

A Disney World type amusement park with rides for the entire family, ranging from Kiddies Corner for your toddler to the Tower of Terror for your teenager, and everything in between. It's a perfect size park so you won't get lost in it, but beware of long lines on public holidays. Read more...

www.goldreefcity.co.za

011 248 6800

Johannesburg Zoo

I have to say I'm amused at the idea of a zoo in Johannesburg, when you can find a huge variety of game roaming the wild within a few hours' drive, but it is actually a nice zoo set in a beautiful park. Something to do when a full-fledged safari isn't feasible.

www.jhbzoo.org.za

011 646 2000

Apartheid Museum

Right across from Gold Reef City, the Apartheid Museum is one of Joburg's must-see destinations. It takes you back to the not-so distant past and the struggle for equal rights, freedom, and ultimately democracy for every South African. Read more...

www.apartheidmuseum.org

011 309 4700

Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum

Dedicated to Hector Pieterson, a 12-year old boy who was killed during the Soweto Uprising in 1976, this museum brings alive the history of that day and the injustices that led to it. Very moving displays and video documentaries.

011 536 0611

Soweto Tour

Take a tour of Soweto, South Africa's largest township and another place steeped in history. You will see the Hector Pieterson Memorial, Regina Mundi Church, Mandela House, the Apartheid Museum, a squatter camp, and a traditional shebeen where you'll taste Joburg Beer.  Read more...

www.sowetotour.co.za

011 463 3306

Maropeng Visitor Centre

The "Cradle of Humankind," about one hour from Joburg, is where they found "Mrs. Ples" or rather her remains which are 2 million years old. Tour the Epcot-like visitor centre to learn more about our human ancestors, or descend into the spectacular Sterkfontein caves. Read more...

www.maropeng.co.za

011 956 6342 (Sterkfontein Cave)

Lion Park

If you won't have time for a safari, the Lion Park is your best bet to get a good close-up view and great pictures of lions as well as cheetahs, wild dogs, and a range of antilopes. As a highlight you also get to pet and play with lion cubs. Read more...

www.lion-park.com

011 691 9905

Montecasino Bird Gardens

A great place for kids (and adults) to interact with birds and other animals. Combine it with a stroll past the shops of  "Monte," have lunch at a cafe on the Piazza, or take the balloon ride for great views of Joburg. Read more...

www.montecasino.co.za

011 511 1864 

Rosebank Rooftop Market

Visit the Rooftop Market at Rosebank Mall on a Sunday to browse everything from African crafts to cheese, spices, jewelery, hats, and paintings. Includes a flea market. Read more...

www.themallofrosebank.co.za

011 442 4488

Bryanston Organic Market

Another nice craft market your visitors will love, featuring lots of African crafts, organic food, live music, and several outdoor cafes. Every Thursday and Saturday morning.

www.bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za

011 706 3671

Elephant Sanctuary

A day trip to Hartbeespoort Dam one hour from Joburg makes for a nice outing. Enjoy the beautiful scenery around the lake and visit the Elephant Sanctuary, where you get to touch, feed, ride, and even get kissed by an elephant! Read more...

www.elephantsanctuary.co.za

012 258 0423

Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre at De Wildt

Visit one of the few places in the world where cheetahs (as well as other endangered animals) are bred in captivity. You can pet a cheetah, take a game drive to view the different animals, and watch the cheetahs race. Read more...

www.dewildt.co.za

012 504 9906

Pilanesberg National Park

Pilanesberg is a Big Five game reserve only two hours from Johannesburg (adjacent to Sun City). Self-drive through the park as a day visitor (adults R45, children R20) or spend the night in one of the safari lodges. Read more...

www.pilanesberg-game-reserve.co.za

014 555 1600

Hartebeesthoek Radio Astronomy Observatory

Another half day outing to the Hartbeespoort area for the science-minded in your family, featuring great hands-on activities and loads of interesting facts. Public viewing one Saturday each month. Read more...

www.hartrao.ac.za

012 301 3100

JoziX
If you don't have the stomach for an all-day slug at Gold Reef City, drop in for a few hours of great fun at JoziX in Bryanston, a sort of giant jungle gym for kids and adults. Read more...
www.jozix.co.za
082 456 2358

Magaliesberg Canopy Tour
A bit of a stretch at 1.5 hours from Joburg, but if you're looking for thrill and adventure this is the perfect day trip for you. While I haven't done this particular canopy tour, I have written about the Tsitsikamma one, which is similar. Read more...
www.magaliescanopytour.co.za
014 535 0150

Avalanche
Joburg really offers pretty much everything. You can even hit the slopes with your skis or snowboard (or opt for tubing) at Avalanche, located in Fourways at Cedar Square. Lessons and birthday parties available. Read more...
www.avalanche.co.za
011 467 2426

Liliesleaf Farm Museum
Another great place, in addition to the Apartheid Museum, to learn more about Nelson Mandela and the anti-apartheid struggle, set in beautiful surroundings and never very crowded. Guided tours available. Read more...
www.liliesleaf.co.za
011 803 7882

Skydiving
The perefect destination for the adventure lover is the Witbank Skydiving Club about 1.5 hours from Joburg, where you can do a tandem skydive without any prior training or take part in a skydiving course. Read more...
www.skydivetandem.co.za
072 150 7680

Balloon Safari
There is another way to soar through the skies for those not inclined to jump out of airplanes - booking a balloon safari over the Cradle of Humankind, about an hour's drive from Joburg. Read more...
www.air-ventures.co.za
083 356 2435

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Expat Joys - Service at the Gas Station

It's really called a garage here in South Africa, with emphasis on the fist syllable, and what you're getting is petrol, not gas. But once you've gotten used to the different terminology, you'll love the experience of filling up your car.

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Expat Joys - Beautiful Art in Your House

We had (and still have!) good friends in Singapore who'd been expats longer than us at the time. It was already their second assignment. I remember entering their house for the first time and being in awe. There was so much artwork, such beautiful mahogany furniture! Unique paintings, masks, and statues from all over the world, or so it seemed to me. It made our house full of sensible Ikea-type desks and shelves we'd accumulated during and after our graduate school years seem completely boring and uninspired.

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Expat Joys - The Head Massage

Moving is annoying. Moving overseas is even more annoying, and with all the stuff you have to get sorted out you easily feel  like you lose an entire year between getting ready to leave and then arriving and settling in.

Even the kids appreciate
the head massage

And it's often the little things that are most annoying, not the big ones, at least for me. Moving to a different continent? No problem. Finding a new hairdresser? You've GOT to be kidding me, after I had finally found one I liked! These were my exact thoughts when I heard about our first expat assignment over ten years ago. I mean, nothing really fazed me - gathering tons of paperwork for our visas, getting our house packed up, selling the minivan I'd come to love, arriving in Singapore and having grave doubts whether Singlish was indeed a form of English, existing without a car for months and having to carry a stroller plus five grocery bags up countless flights of stairs, learning how to drive on the left side of the road when I finally did get a car... None of that bothered me nearly as much as finding (and trusting!) a new person to cut my hair. Not that I spend any amount of time or worry on my hair, to the contrary, but that's exactly the point. You just need to have a hairdresser, period.

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A Trip Back into South Africa's History

Whether you live in Johannesburg or are just visiting, you should definitely go to the Apartheid Museum. Not only does it fill in many gaps in your knowledge of South Africa's past, it also brings across a first-hand experience of what Apartheid might have felt like for those who lived through it, something you won't get a feel for just by reading a history book.

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Starting My Day in South Africa

I was pouring my breakfast cereal one day last week and it occurred to me that I should take some pictures and share them here. When you’re an expat, you are often quick to condemn the things that don’t work in your new country (can’t help but put in another Eskom dig here), and South Africa in particular gets a whole lot of bad press due to its crime, but there are also many, many pleasures in your new life that you will probably only truly appreciate when you’ve moved elsewhere. So I thought I would start a mini series on the little joys of being an expat in South Africa, with this breakfast post being the first.

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Victoria Falls

Another great weekend getaway from Joburg and a MUST while you're an expat in South Africa is Victoria Falls. Much like Cape Town, it's less than a two-hour flight and reasonably priced. It's a great trip to take your kids on as there is much to do and see, but it also makes for a nice couples weekend.

The latter is what we chose to do a few weeks ago. It was long in coming - the entire trip was my birthday present from last July (Noisette had given me a framed picture of the falls as a place holder for the trip, which much later one of the kids saw standing on my bathroom counter - "Isn't the waterfall upside down?", was the question. Sure enough, it was!)

We arrived in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, on a Saturday afternoon. Our flight on South African Airways (SAA) had been uneventful, if you don't count the fact that we had to purchase new tickets at the counter that morning. Just a slight snag. You can also fly into Livingstone on the Zambia side, but we had settled on Zimbabwe. First off, I have to say that it is not nearly as bad as I had expected. You hear all these horror stories about Zimbabwe, and I'm sure much of it is true, but in terms of travelling and staying in Victoria Falls as a tourist there is absolutely no problem. The people are lovely, the service is good, and most everything is available.

One thing you want to be sure of is to bring a nice supply of US dollars with you. It has been the official currency of Zimbabwe, ever since their own collapsed (reminders of which you can purchase at every street corner in the form of a Fifty Trillion Dollar note), but because they don't actually print it (thank GOD) there isn't much change out there, certainly no coins. Every price is in multiples of $5, so you are well served by carrying a stack of smaller bills, especially if you want to buy some of the art work or simply give tips. South African Rands also work, as well as Euros, but the problem with Euros is that you don't get as good of a rate.

This last point became apparent as we stood in a long line fresh off the plane. It was reminiscent of our days in Singapore where we'd frequently take the ferry over to Indonesia for a weekend beach holiday. Similar lines in a similarly shabby arrivals lounge, and at the mercy of an immigration official armed with a battery of stamps to go at your passports (beware if you don't have an entire new page left for that purpose!). No price lists anywhere, so you're at the mercy of the official telling you it's $30. In Euros, which is what we had brought? €25. Forget the exchange rate, it has to be a multiple of 5, and no one ever rounds down!

Driving through the countryside to our hotel rendered our first surprise. It was so lush, so green! Much greener than South Africa ever gets, even in the midst of the rainy season. And the weather was perfect. Warmer and more humid than Joburg, but not oppressively so. Everything seemed to be in bloom. In short, a Garden of Eden of sorts, if you discount the poverty all around, and the dilapidated buildings of "downtown" Victoria Falls that had the vague air of East Germany pre-1989. But that is just the town itself. If you're planning a trip to Vic Falls, I can recommend staying outside of town - there will be less hustle and bustle and you won't constantly have helicopters flying over your head, as you're prone to have in a hotel directly at the falls. On the other hand, the views are bound to be stunning if your hotel overlooks the falls, and you'll  have to endure less transfers back and forth. Our hotel, or rather lodge, the Stanley & Livingstone, was about 15 minutes away from town and absolutely perfect for us.  The view from the breakfast terrace is exactly as advertised on the website, and the decor and atmosphere make you feel as if you've gone back in time (without losing any modern day conveniences, that is). I've also written a review of the Stanley&Livingstone on Tripadvisor if you're interested.

Breakfast at the Stanley & Livingstone

Waterhole as seen from Stanley & Livingstone Terrace

The water hole was frequented by elephants, buffaloes, and water-bucks, and I can only imagine what it would be like during the dry winter months (May through September). It seems like there is something on offer any time of year at Vic Falls, but I'm glad we came at this time of year (March) when the water levels are highest and the falls at their most impressive.

The falls are the most stunning during high water season

We decided to spend the rest of the afternoon at the pool, where after a while we had an unexpected visitor:

Late that first afternoon we set off for the sunset cruise on the Zambezi. We were not the only ones, that's for sure. Everybody at Vic Falls does a sunset cruise. The boats circled ten deep in some places, but the Zambezi is actually so wide and majestic it doesn't matter, and you absolutely have to experience the sunset with a Zambezi beer in front of you. In fact, after seeing the next few pictures, you will probably start working on your travel arrangements.

We were quite busy the rest of that weekend with a helicopter ride, an elephant safari, and canoeing on the Zambezi, but seeing the actual falls was almost an afterthought. It's a good thing the manager of our hotel suggested we should tour the falls, or we might have missed out on this prime reason for our visit! And, it turns out, the most memorable part. The helicopter ride of course was great but brief and not nearly as impressive as standing across from Devil's Cataract, water roaring in our ears and getting drenched with rain. Not quite drenched, actually, because I had insisted we take umbrellas from the hotel. Noisette never likes to carry anything extra but had to concede that both the umbrellas and camera case were extremely useful. Though in hindsight I can recommend leaving everything behind, including shoes - I felt like half the Zambezi was squishing around in my hiking boots - and just enjoy getting drenched. You won't be taking great pictures anyway due to the perpetual mist.

View of the falls from the helicopter

Elephant ride as seen from the biggest elephant!

I love how the elephant is eying the food!

Devil's Cataract from under the umbrella

One cool fact about the elephants: They are trained in three languages. Our elephant - Tusker - impressed us by reversing on command (back!) to pick up a stirrup that had come loose (pick!). A not so cool fact about the elephants: Riding on one renders numb private parts!

Our last day was spent with a canoeing trip (above the falls). While the canoeing was great (and fast-moving with almost no paddling which is just the right kind of canoeing for our family), there was too much hoo-hah and back and forth attached to it, so I'm not sure if I would recommend it. By the time we had transferred to the Shearwater office, then to the canoeing headquarters, then through Zambezi National Park upriver (one long bumpy ride which made as long for the elephants from yesterday, numbness notwithstanding) and suffered through what seemed like hours of safety talk, we were quite ready to get on the darn river, crocodiles to hell.

Maybe it was just our bad luck that we had a couple from Boston in our group (I SWEAR they must have been Harvard professors), who was scared shitless by the prospect of hippos overturning our canoes and asked a gazillion questions about what exactly to do in a multitude of different scenarios. It went like this: Our guide would show how to paddle on the left if you want to turn right, and the woman would say "wait a minute, let me see if I got this right - if you want to turn to the right, you paddle on the left like this?" and she would demonstrate. Then she asked things like when will we picked up again, where precisely will we be picked up again, where will we be brought from there, how long will it take before we have the first break, where can we put our camera, do you have a water proof bag, do we EACH get a water proof bag... I swear this went on for about an hour. Noisette and I were both ready to strangle her and throw her into the river. Throughout all this her husband was mute, until we were finally - finally! - on the river, and he asked the guide whether the right or left side of the river was Zambia. We hadn't even taken three strokes to leave the bank, which was obviously in Zimbabwe! He also decided that this was a good moment for the first photo op, which was complicated by the fact that both him and her were in two different canoes, with their own guide each, due to their fear of the hippos. They must have thought Noisette and I were reckless, sharing the same. Anyway, a back and forth ensued, camera handed across the water and back again, while I wished for nothing more than the darn camera dropping into the water. Eventually it was safely stowed in the shared - not separate - water proof bag and we were finally on our way.

In hindsight, we should have seen this coming when said couple turned up in the morning with matching safari gear - from hat to toe, literally. But once again I should be grateful for such excellent writing material!

This is what the river looked like above the falls (see the mist), though we didn't get quite so close

The river was beautiful, very wide, faster flowing than expected with a few rapids, but the ride was over much too quickly. Our guides constantly worried about hippos - not crocodiles - and we were reminded of how dangerous they are and how it's  important to take them seriously, as it is with all wild animals. We did take note of some beautiful lodges on the Zambia side, right on the water. Something to investigate for our next trip!

All in all, we loved Victoria Falls and will be back. Next time we want to bring the boys during the low water season so that we can raft down the gorge. We've also seen pictures of "river boarding" where you basically boogie board down the rapids, which also looks awesome. I suspect Zax will also want to do the bungee jump off the bridge, but if I know one thing for certain in my life it is that I will NOT be doing that! There is, however, also a zipline across the river (called foofie slide or something similar in these parts) which I might be convinced to try on our next visit.

Bungee jumping off the bridge

You can look at all my pictures here:

Victoria Falls Travel Tips:

• Bring US dollars, especially small denominations
• Best time of year to view the falls: During high water March - May
• Best time of year for white water rafting: During low water September - January (closed during high water)
• Leave your camera at the hotel when walking along the falls during high water
• Bring your passport or South African ID with you when you enter any of the national parks, since South African residents get a better price
• Take the helicopter ride - the views are stunning!
• Plan and book your activities through Shearwater or Wild Horizons ahead of time and negotiate a good rate for transfers from your hotel

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